Pepe Solla, Albert Raurich, Isaac Loya and JuanLu Fernández, chefs from the four points of the Spanish compass, were responsible for Monday’s dinner at Bodegas Osborne in El Puerto de Santa María.
The majestic brandy room and the no less impressive Toro Gallery at Bodegas de Mora de Osborne in El Puerto de Santa María were the venue for a dinner of eight hands and four winds. Galician chef Pepe Solla (Casa Solla*, Poio, Pontevedra), representing the Atlantic; Catalan Albert Raurich (Dos Palillos*, Barcelona), representing the Mediterranean; from Asturias, Isaac Loya (Real Balneario*, Salinas), representing the Cantabrian Sea, and JuanLu Fernández (LÚ Cocina y Alma*, Jerez), “representing the spirit of where the two seas meet”, explained Benjamín Lana, the Meeting of the Seas’ ideologist. This was the dinner of four winds.
A classic apéritif awaited diners in the brandy room. The Cinco Jotas delicatessens (ham, traditional pork loin, pork shoulder, salchichón …) went hand in hand with Osborne Coquinero en Rama sherry poured into the glass with the traditional venencia, Fino La Honda en Rama and Amontillado La Honda en Rama to delight palates and souls, and to follow the exchange of ideas during the conversations in the majestic room.
The group moved in harmony to the Toro Gallery to sit at circular tables and take on fare with four different creative visions of maritime cuisine. Pepe Solla offered up his fake niguiri of scallops and tuna and ravioli/filloa with centolla crab and algae; Isaac Loya, Cantabrian lobster in sauce with sea lettuce, and red bream at low temperature over the pot; JuanLu Fernández, cold smoked sea bass in iodine marinade, and Albert Raurich, a hake trilogy with kokotxa necks in pankoage, hake in green curry, and suiomono with hake surimi.
The Andalusian’s citruses rounded off a pleasant meal, washed down with S. Pellegrino, Acqua Panna, Mahou-San Miguel beer and a selection of wines from the Cádiz winery (Montecillo Blanco Fermentado en Barrica 2019, Viña Monty Viura 2016, Montecillo Gran Reserva 150 Aniversario 2005 and Osborne Solera RARE Pedro Ximénez Viejo).