At the roundtable discussion “Haute Cuisine of the Sea,” three leading figures in Spanish gastronomy—Aitor Arregi (Elkano, Getaria, and Cataria, Chiclana), Pablo Sánchez (Los Marinos José, Fuengirola), and Berto Domínguez (Restaurante D'Berto, O Grove)—discussed the present and future of seafood restaurants and their role within haute cuisine.

The discussion centered on a key question: Can a seafood restaurant be considered haute cuisine, or is it, rather, ingredient-driven cuisine? All three agreed that excellence does not depend on a label, but rather on respect for the product and constant improvement. Arregi argued that grilling, once considered a rustic technique, has become a universal culinary language, while Sánchez and Domínguez emphasized the importance of maintaining the purity of the sea’s flavor without artifice.

One of the most debated topics was the scarcity and rising cost of high-quality seafood. The three chefs acknowledged that accessing exceptional raw ingredients is becoming increasingly difficult and expensive, and that the audience willing to pay for them is limited. Domínguez explained that, given the scarcity of seafood, he has opted to serve small portions so that all diners can sample the finest specimens, while Sánchez compared the value of the product to that of a luxury car: “There are barnacles, and then there is the barnacle—and that comes at a price.”

The conversation turned to sustainability and consumer education. Arregi highlighted the need to value the work of fishermen and to respect the seasonality of species like anchovies, whose quality varies by season. Sánchez, for his part, praised the north’s respect for fishing moratoriums and lamented that in the south, fishing still takes place without sufficient oversight. Both agreed that bad weather and sea conditions force restaurants to have flexible menus, adapted to what the sea offers each day.

Domínguez recalled that years ago he had to “educate” his customers so they would understand that spider crab or barnacles aren’t always available, and that the key lies in accepting seasonality. Arregi went further and proposed eliminating fixed menus: “perhaps we need to go back to asking the customer what they want and responding with what the region has provided that day.”

The debate concluded with a shared reflection: seafood cuisine must reconnect with nature and convey values of sustainability to new generations. “We must educate starting at home, from the fisherman to the diner,” Domínguez stated, while Arregi insisted that the future lies in “defending the region and the knowledge of its people.”

At a time when gastronomic luxury is measured as much by technique as by authenticity, the three chefs agreed that true haute cuisine of the sea lies not in sophistication, but in respect for the product, the sea, and those who work with it.