In a presentation rich in data and insight, María Luisa Álvarez, a representative of Spain’s traditional fishmongers, sent a clear message: the country that prides itself on the Mediterranean diet is no longer following it. In her remarks during a business conference in Tenerife, Álvarez warned of the steady decline in seafood consumption, which has fallen to 17.79 kilograms per person per year, with an average expenditure of less than 200 euros.

She highlighted the most striking figure from the Canary Islands, where, despite being surrounded by the sea, consumption barely reaches 13 kilograms per person per year. “We boast about a diet we no longer follow, and that is very dangerous,” she warned.

Cultural Changes and the Loss of Commensality

Álvarez explained that the problem is not only economic, but also cultural and social. Spain’s family structure has changed: there are more single-person households and fewer children, which has reduced communal dining—the habit of eating in company—an essential feature of Spanish gastronomic culture. Added to this is the influence of the processed food industry, which has managed to impose the idea that cooking is a waste of time.

“We’re outsourcing cooking,” he noted, pointing out that Spaniards spend more than five hours a day on social media and streaming platforms, but increasingly less time preparing their meals. The result: eight million people never or almost never cook, and fish—which requires some preparation—is one of the biggest losers.

The rise of pets and ultra-processed foods

With a touch of irony, Álvarez pointed out another paradigm shift: “In Spain, there are more dogs than children.” The growth of the pet food market contrasts with the decline in fish consumption in households with young children, where consumption barely reaches 7.5 kilograms per person per year. “If we don’t introduce fish before the age of six, it will be very difficult for them to eat it as adults,” he warned. Meanwhile, ready-made meals have grown by 514% over two decades, matching fish consumption in volume. “We are replacing healthy foods with ultra-processed products,” she lamented, citing a study in The Lancet that describes this phenomenon as a “systemic threat to public health and equity.” Taxation and Public Health The speaker also denounced the unfair taxation that imposes a 10% VAT on fish, compared to 4% on other staple foods. “How can such a healthy food be penalized fiscally?” she asked. She proposed a zero VAT rate for seafood products, considering them an essential part of a healthy diet and a citizen’s right.

Álvarez directly linked the decline in fish consumption to the rise in childhood obesity and public health problems, which cost the state more than 25 billion euros annually. “It is not an individual problem; it is a social problem,” she emphasized.

Innovation in Fish Markets: From the Counter to Show Cooking

Far from a nostalgic speech, Álvarez advocated for the modernization of the sector. He celebrated the approval of a Royal Decree allowing fish markets to host culinary activities, such as tastings or the sale of prepared products. “We can be traditional and modern at the same time,” he stated.

He showcased examples of gourmet fishmongers offering sushi, ceviche, or oyster tastings, and even organizing home catering for events of up to 40 people. He also highlighted the growing digital presence of fishmongers—some with over 70,000 followers on social media—and creative campaigns like “Say It with Seafood” for Valentine’s Day.

A Call to Action The presentation concluded with a message of urgency and hope: to restore the value of fish in the Spanish diet. Álvarez called for a national promotional strategy, mandatory nutrition education in schools, and greater visibility for the sector.

“We have the best product, the greatest variety of species, and a network of fishmongers unique in the world. All that’s left is for us to believe in it again,” he declared.